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ADVICE CENTRE
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CHAT AREA |
| Davida LUNAR System Helmet |
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| If you are looking for a full-face helmet at a reasonable price that looks smart, then this is the one for you - click the image above for further information and larger images |
| Book Page |
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Getting Started Every
motorcycle rider should always be aware of the limits of his or
her skills, experience and abilities and ride accordingly. never
going beyond them. Always ride responsibly, and remember, motorcycle
riders must practice defensive driving
We hope these pages will guide you in the right direction. If you already
hold a car licence and think it's not a problem to learn to ride
a The attitude
you take to motorcycle riding will influence the type of motorcycle
After all
that, what makes a good rider
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| Rider
Law The basics To ride a motorcycle on a public road you must be at least 17 years old and have a driving licence that entitles you to ride motorcycles. That licence can be any of the following
A provisional
motorcycle licence entitles you to ride a solo motorcycle up to
125cc This may be
either a first provisional licence or provisional entitlement
attached to a Support the development of Cruisermotorcycles.co.uk and purchase the books below through our site
 Useful web sites back to the top |
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| The
Theory Test From 1st February 2001 provisional motorcycle licence holders must pass a theory test before they can book the practical test, even if they hold a full licence in another group. Before this date holders of a full car licence were exempt from the theory test requirements when seeking to gain a licence for the other category of vehicle - i.e. a car driver only needed to take a practical motorcycle test. The exemption from motorcycle theory test will remain for those persons who gained a full moped licence (not those who have a full moped licence by virtue of having passed the car test) by taking a moped theory and practical test - the moped and motorcycle theory tests are the same. The theory test pass certificate has a life of 2 years, after which time it will be necessary to take the test again before taking a practical driving test. The theory test can be taken at over 145 centres throughout the UK. Sessions are available on weekdays, evenings and on Saturdays. You can find out where your local centre is from:
The topics
covered in the paper will include
As a motorcycle
rider, you will be asked specific questions on motorcycling matters
in addition to questions that apply to all road users. Publications The Audio
mock theory test - devised to help new drivers to prepare
for the theory |
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| Clothing Helmet Protective clothing Footwear Gloves Staying dry Staying warm CE-mark Polycarbonate Glass Fibre Kevlar
afford but the helmet must fit properly. Different manufacturers' ranges and models are different shapes - what fits your mate may not fit you, always try before you buy. The fit should be snug and even but not tight , if you feel pressure on any part of your head after a few hours it will give you a splitting headache, always shop around and try them all before you buy, always buy new. Here's how to measure your head, to select the best size of helmet, Measure the circumference across the forehead, above the ears and the back of the head as illustrated below either in centimetres or inches (most of the helmets are not in centimetres). If you have long or short hair, the way you measure will allow for some tolerance, so try on both the tighter and looser size, if you prefer the tight feeling refer to the tighter size, looser size if not, if uncertain take the tighter size
Protective Clothing Good quality leather is the ultimate protection, so you should be looking for top quality cowhide, preferably made from as few panels as possible with double and concealed stitching about 1.3mm thick. One huge advantage of leathers is that they are very tough - not only can this save your skin, but you can fall off several times in a decent set of leathers before they need repairing/replacing (we are not advocating that you try this, just take our word for it). As an initial outlay, a decent set of leather may seem expensive but they do last and become your second skin, so buy the best you can. Most Cruiser riders tend to wear the traditional type of leather jacket and a pair of leather jeans specially made for motorcycle riders. One piece leather suits tend to be used by sportsbike riders. Remember that
leather is not the best material for keeping out the cold and
will not remain waterproof for more than an hour or so in rain.
In winter weather you will need additional insulation and waterproofs
over the top - remember leathers are windproof but not particularly
warm
able to concentrate. A good alternative to leather is the newer style jackets and trouser made of synthetic materials like cordura. They tend to be lighter, cooler, more comfortable and fitted with body armour, plus many have a waterproof membrane and removable thermal inner. Avoid casual jackets and fashion shop clothing, as they may look good, but they will fall apart in contact with the road. Denims are barely adequate and will wear out very quickly if you do fall off. Jackets & Trousers
The best
choice are leather 3/4 motorcycle boots - the thicker the leather,
the better
leather - so check carefully when you buy, and give the seams a good tug - a lot of cheap gloves are useless and a waste of good money. Make sure fingers are long and loose enough, otherwise the gloves will be very uncomfortable after a few hours holding the grips. Don't be tempted to use cheap ski-gloves - they will not protect you when you are sliding down the road. Gloves are exposed to the weather so will get wet and cold. You will find that you will need at least two pairs of gloves. I always carry a spare pair in my saddle bags - you know what this British weather is like. Back to the top Staying dry
showerproof commuter suits to expensive storm-proof gear - one piece or two piece. You get what you pay for I'm afraid. To keep your feet dry use either nylon or rubber over-boots (a plastic bag will work just as well at a pinch), or cortex socks To keep your hands dry use nylon over gloves but they can make it difficult to use the controls (but once you get used to them you will not do without them) When purchasing a waterproof over suit you should look for the following:- PVC coated nylon Bonded and taped seams Large diagonal front opening for easy access Front pockets with Velcro closure storm flaps High collar with soft touch lining Fully lined or mesh half lined for non-stick Popper/Velcro and zipper front opening overlap double storm flap Elasticated cuffs and waist Integral self containing fold away pouch with belt and quick release buckle And above all 100% waterproof and windproof New generation of waterproof suits incorporating "CORTEX" are as expensive as most leathers but much more versatile, it is guaranteed 100% impermeable back to the top Staying warm
Extra layers are good for insulation,the more layers the better. Thermal underwear also works reasonably well, although I have found that the clothing that mountain climbers use seems to be the best. Any good outdoor shop can supply them. Marks & Spencer thermals have also worked well too. also you could consider a good fleece again from an outdoor shop. Windproof oversuits will also help. You can also purchase thermal gloves which fit under your normal gloves, and, like boots, a couple of layers of socks is better than one pair of very thick socks. The best of all is the heated clothing, I have found that my best bargain ever is the heated handlebar grips, as they keep my hands nice and warm and keep my gloves dry. With just a flick of the switch your hands are nice and warm and it makes you feel a lot better so that you mind less about riding in bad conditions. CE mark All protective clothing sold since July 1996 should be "CE" marked. This is a European standard of protection but is based on research work done in the UK. The CE standard is tough, a sign of good quality kit. Jackets, trousers, gloves and boots go through a series of tests to determine things such as, the abrasion resistance of the material, the bursting strength of seams and zips and the colour fastness of the dyes. Most bike gear is not "CE" approved and will be labelled with a disclaimer that the garment is "not considered to be Personal Protective Equipment". Misc A small list of other items to make motorcycling more comfortable and safe
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| Security Bike theft is a major business in the UK and we have only ourselves to blame, as more than half the motorcycles stolen in the UK were not secured. Don't forget you have spent around £7000 - £8000 on your new motorcycle, so don't just buy a small disc lock. I am afraid that I do not have much faith with just having a disc lock, you need a high quality chain and padlock. Again, expensive does not necessarily mean better (see RIDE Magazine), with a padlock and chain your bike could be secured to a lamppost or such like. The more visible the bike the better, the chances are that it will be left alone, with it being in the open. You must still be aware, as it has been known for professionals thieves to cut the chain and lift the bike onto a recovery vehicle. Most motorcycles are now stolen by professionals rather than joy riders. Nowhere is safe, so you can only do your best. Security devices can help as a deterrent, especially if it stops the thief from easily moving your motorcycle out of sight and earshot, so consider the extra cost a really worthwile investmentt. Basically, the more layers of security you can put around your motorcycle, the less attractive it will be to the thieves. No single
product can cover all eventualities, but you will stand less chance
of becoming When you park
your motorcycle at night make sure you have secured the garage
The deterrent
value of an anti-theft device is in how long it takes the thief
to bypass
Security
tips
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Practical
Training Riding for
years or even for a short time and want to improve your riding
skills, then have |
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Basic
Maintenance
Electrical Systems
Suspension and Steering
Fluid levels
Basic Cleaning In order to clean your bike you need to have some basic equipment. These are as follows
Cleaning your
motorcycle is very much like riding it, everyone does things their
own way and has preferred methods Rinse and
use a shammy cloth to dry before applying the polish. Allow the
polish to dry and then polish up
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| Choosing
a Motorcycle As you have arrived at this site I will assume that you have already decided that you will be riding a cruiser motorcycle. Cruiser motorcycles are recognisable by their unique styling. Custom motorcycles are available in a wide range of engine sizes including 125cc for the learner rider. They usually have a low seat height with a 'laid back' riding position. Buying a bike will be a sizeable investment and it is easy to make big mistakes - there are plenty of sharks out there waiting to separate you from your hard earned cash, even when you find a good honest deal it is all too easy to end up with the wrong motorcycle. You must ask yourself - what you want to do and want from your motorcycle?
As you can
see you have a lot to consider and think about. You
must also consider your budget Insurance
- some models cost a lot more to insure Talk to your
friends or other riders about their motorcycles and their experiences
- most will give you sound feedback about the motorcycle that
you will need. Have a look at road tests in bike magazines, attend
motorcycle shows etc. just to see what is available. Contact the
manufacturers for information, but at the end of the day the choice
is yours and yours alone. Check the
Factory Cruisers web page
of this site Should you
buy new or used, official or parallel import, buy a used machine
from a dealer, or privately? They they all have merits for and
against but at the end of day, the choice is yours. You can always
get the AA or RAC to check over the motorcycle before you buy. |
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| General
Information Insurance- you must have valid insurance, there are three levels
You will have
to shop around for the best deal KEEP AN EYE ON THIS SECTION AS WE ARE
LOOKING INTO WHAT THE INSURANCE COMPANYS GIVE YOU FOR YOUR MONEY
AND WHAT THE ACTUALLY PAY OUT IS IF YOU HAVE AN ACCIDENT - IN
REALITY YOU NEVER GET THE FULL VALUE OF YOUR BIKE. |
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| RIDING
IN GROUPS by Insp. Kevin Fitzpatrick In consultation with: Phil Curtis and Andy Morrison Thames Valley Police Driving School General All of us love getting together with our friends and riding out on our bikes for either the day or the weekend, perhaps even longer. Whether it's a day at the coast or five days in the Black Forest in Germany the enjoyment is the same. Planning the route, sorting out the kit, prepping the bike and so on is all part of the fun. We all love it but are we always aware how easily it can end in tears? I hate to say it but in the past few years there have been an increasing number of accidents (including fatal accidents) involving people riding in groups. Quite often the victim is either a newcomer to biking or someone who has only recently joined the group. Sometimes the group itself is new or had only got together for one ride. Whatever the cause, with a few simple precautions and some common sense rules the run can not only be made safer but much more fun for all concerned. We have prepared the following to help organisers, who may be new to running trips, to plan a run with the benefit of other peoples (sometimes painful!) experiences. A book such as 'Motorcyclists Welcome' by Peter Gleave is an invaluable asset when organising trips if you wish to ensure that your accomodation will be suitable for groups of motorcyclists and that secure parking is available. The added benefit that can be had is a photocopy of the page containing details of the location to which they're heading. Route Planning Whether you are looking for the quickest, motorway based route or a more challenging ride through the countryside you need to think about where you are going to make stops and to sort out rendezvous points in case you all get split up. When making these plans you need to consider the comfortable range of all the bikes on the trip as well as the ability of the riders to ride for long distances. To avoid mishap it is a good idea to give everyone a copy of: the route
to be taken (list of roads and/or a route map)
The Running Order This is critical to get right if you want a safe and successful run for the whole gang so this point is worth spending some time on. You often hear it said that you should put the slowest bike out in front - but think for a minute what will happen if you do that. The slowest one is frequently one of the least experienced riders on a less than quick bike, does he or she really want the responsibility of leading the way? What about the perceived pressure from those behind to 'get a move on!'? Or conversely, do the others really want to be stuck behind Timmy Slowcoach for the whole trip? Some fun that would be! The reality is that it never happens. The group may start out with the slowest in front but pretty soon some of the others get fed up, start overtaking each other, blatting off and before you know it it's all gone to rats and you never get them together again this side of Christmas! If, like me, you've found yourself at the ferry port waiting and wondering if the others are ever going to show up (especially the bloke with the tickets!) you'll know that this scenario is to be avoided like the plague! So what is the best order to ride in? Well for a start the leader/navigator should be out in front. He or she should have studied and be familiar with the route and should have the riding skills and the bike to make reasonable progress. At the back you need a 'sweeper'. This should be an experienced member of the team (or a pair of good riders) on a big, reliable bike - one with a turn of speed if required. This rider should, like the leader, also be familiar with the route to be taken and should, if possible, have a mobile phone or other means of communication. The job of the sweeper is to look out for stragglers or break -downs and to make sure no-one gets left behind or has an accident without being noticed. Between the leader and the sweeper you can afford to spread out a bit. Usually riders will pair up with people they know and little sub groups can form - not a problem if everybody is still singing from the same song sheet. As a rule it is best to keep the newer riders well up towards the front where they can be a bit protected by their more experienced companions.
Rules of the Road When out on the road there are two golden rules for a successful group run and these need agreeing by everyone before the start: No overtaking
each other without prior planning and Okay, it's their trip as well and you've no right to demand that they ride along with everybody else the whole time. What is fair though is that they wait for the stop then let you know they are going to be having a 'blat' on the next stage of the journey. You can then warn the rest that a couple of riders will be out of the group for a while and you can arrange to meet up at the next stop. 'Riding to the bike behind' is more serious and is the key to the whole concept of good group riding. Basically, one of the main causes of accidents is when the riders in the group play 'follow my leader' and constantly try to keep up with the bike in front. You often see riders towards the back of a group doing stupid things like overtaking on white lines, flying into blind bends, speeding in the most inappropriate places and even jumping red lights in an effort to catch up. This can easily be avoided, without having to crawl along in a big group, if you just keep the bike behind you in your mirrors all the time. That way you can make as much progress as you like and only need slow down or stop if you can't see that bike for any extended period. Certainly, never turn left or right or deviate from the 'ahead' course without being sure that the follower has seen you. By exercising this simple technique you will be amazed how you can enjoy the higher speed runs along more challenging roads without having to sacrifice the group concept.
Motorways Staying together, or at least in sight of one another is quite important on motorways. This is especially true if you are in unfamiliar territory. Remember stopping on the hard shoulder near a turn off just to let the rest of your group catch up is illegal and can get you booked or worse. Within reason, the slower your group rides on the motorway the more likely they are to stay together. Really big groups of Hells Angels can often be seen trundling along at around 50 m.p.h. and hogging (pardon the pun) the nearside lane. Those of us less comfortable with the idea of holding everyone up or obstructing other traffice might like to try a different tactic. The best one is to give the lead rider the strict speed limit which is well within the reach of everyone else in the group. It could be 65 on a busy urban motorway in the U.K. or as much as 100 m.p.h. on an Autobahn in Germany. It doesn't matter as long as the others can do at least 20 m.p.h. more without blowing an engine - or a driving licence! Combining this with the no overtaking rule and riding to the bike behind, no-one should have too much difficulty staying in touch with the group when the inevitable speeding car gets in the middle of them.
Town / City Centres Riding in large cities like London, Paris or Amsterdam or even smaller towns like Reading with the intricate traffic management systems can be a nightmare at the best of times. Even when you know your way around it is easy to get into the wrong lane or get caught out at the lights. Staying together in a large group in these places is next to impossible. Sooner or later the group is bound to get broken up and the total strangers to the area will have major problems finding their friends. The only way to sort this out is to get organised before going into the town into smaller groups of around three or four bikes. Ideally, one of the smaller groups should be able to act as a navigator, although this is not always possible. By riding in a staggered formation it is possible for this size group of bikes to stay fairly close to one another at low speeds and even to move almost as one vehicle through junctions etc. minimising the risk of further split ups. However, this technique needs practising to get right and less experienced riders may be uncomfortable until their confidence improves. A bit of practice in local towns before the trip could well pay dividends if you know a major city is going to be on the route. Above all it is essential to have a substantial landmark as a rendezvous point in case of dispersal. Even in a country where you don't speak the language you can usually get directions to major places of interest and, of course, morale (which is linked to safety) will stay high for lost riders if they have the company of a couple of other bikes with them.
Riding Abroad It only takes one member of the team to get badly injured for the whole trip to be ruined for everyone. I will always remember being with a large group in Germany when one of them became seriously ill. Getting him medical attention and ultimately flown home was bad enough but getting his bike transported across France thence back to the U.K. was an absolute nightmare. It turned out that the insurance we had all taken out did not cover any dangerous activity and motorcycling was specifically mentioned! It ended up costing our friend thousands and much of the fun was taken out of the whole adventure. On the other hand, now older and wiser, a few years later when two of our number crashed in driving rain in Dublin we had things right. An overnight stay in hospital was followed by a call to the A.A. 5 Star service and not only were medical bills covered but the bikes were shipped home and a hire car provided free of charge for our friends to complete the rest of the holiday. It certainly pays dividends to get the right cover before venturing on two wheels away from the U.K. and, even if you ultimately don't use it, the peace of mind it brings is alone worth the cost of the premium. Additionally, if you book through the large motoring organisations you get sent lots of info on legal requirements etc. for the countries you are visiting and lots of other bumph as well.
Finally As a veteran of many large trips both home and abroad I can say honestly that they are great fun and worth all the hassle of organising. It has been my genuine experience that the best trips have been those when the principals mentioned above have been adhered to and the ones best forgotten were those where it has been 'every man for himself'. Have fun. Return to Bikesafe 2000 |
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